In August 2026, my wife and I stayed, as part of a group of seven, at the Ulle Gorri farmhouse, where hosts Ana and Inaki provided a fabulous 5-day, 4-night (g)astronomical tour of their beloved Basque highlands. This trip was so memorable as it combined enthusiastic and energetic hosts, wonderful meals both at the farmhouse and at excellent restaurants; and hikes, tours, and drives through some of the most beautiful scenery and towns in Europe.
On the first day, we were picked up in the beautiful city of Bilbao and taken through the mountains for a brief hike to a scenic overlook and a beautiful historic old stone church in the woods, and then to the historic village of Otxandio, (that was bombed early in the Spanish Civil War.).
On the second day, as on every day, we enjoyed a complete breakfast in the glass-enclosed porch overlooking the pastures. We then hiked to the national park right next to the farmhouse and were treated to majestic views from the crest of the hills and a hike along the ridge to where vultures circling in the sky led us to graphic evidence of sheep kills by the local wolves. We then had an excellent lunch in town and a swim in the local reservoir. In the evening, we joined the hosts at festivities with the local community out in the street, and we all enjoyed the food and the dancing!
The third day was a longer hike through the Gorbea natural park, followed by a walking tour of the beautiful and hilly Basque capital, Vitoria-Gasteiz including a thorough tour of the pre-gothic Santa Maria Cathedral, including underground foundations and various repair attempts over the years. This was followed by a meal where we got to make our own pintzos (tapas) workshop and dinner at a venue exclusively for us.
The fourth day was for a one-time only event, but, nevertheless showed the talents and enthusiasm of the hosts Ana and Inaki in dedication to their guests, by arranging a trip to Lerma, outside the Basque country, in neighboring Castille to observe the August 12, 2026 total solar eclipse from the best vantage point considering climate and length of totality. We observed this spectacle from the vineyards of Ramiro Garcia, where a fabulous dinner was provided, complete with the Ramiro's wine. Earlier that day, we had dined in a very cool (in both ways) wine cellar (Lerma has a hot climate). The hosts had done extensive researches on solar eclipses so as to make the event both safe and scientifically informative.
The fifth day, we toured the salt flats of Anana, a salt valley being exploited since before Roman times, where salt-saturated springs emerge from the ground. This was followed by a fabulous seven-course lunch prepared using the salts in various ways, for us while we watched at the Michelin-recognized restaurant Almazen Salinas.
I have gone through some detail in this review since it shows both the beauty and people of the fascinating Basque country, and the enthusiasm and dedication by which our hosts Ana and Inaki have worked with the many providers of food, wine and tours to make our trip as memorable as possible.